Midday. The August sun is at its zenith. A large iron door that leads to the local police station opens up with a scraping noise, and a red-headed woman in a dark-blue uniform steps outside. She sets off to a local supermarket, walking boldly along the narrow pavement covered with deep crinkled cracks – so fast that I barely keep up with her.
"So, you did steal the gin, didn't you?"
"I guess I did," a pinkish middle-aged man with a smell of alcohol on his breath shrugs and suddenly raises his eyes with a ray of hope. "Got a smoke, officer?"
The woman sighs and hands him a thin mint cigarette. Then she briskly nods at her colleagues, meaning it is time to take the troublemaker to the police department.
Twenty minutes later, the penitent thief in a red baseball cap, who introduced himself as Yura, is sitting on a plastic chair at her office, constantly fidgeting and guiltily staring at the floor. He babbles that he ended up in Vytegra by accident – missed his bus and lost his documents – and asks pitifully to call his mom so that she could send him money for another bus ticket to Petrozavodsk. The red-head woman sighs again and gives him her service phone. However, once he starts yelling, she purses her lips in disapproval, takes the phone back and in a strict teacher's voice tells the thief's mom about the accident herself. Then she gives Yura an appraising eye.
"Just what I need here. The bus leaves tomorrow morning. Let's go buy you a ticket 'cause I don't wanna see you in this town ever again, got it?"
With these words, Elena leaves the office. Yura and I spring up and rush after her.
Despite the issued fine, Yura's mood has lightened. My photo camera does not seem to bother him at all – he walks vigorously along the tortuous path, squints in the sun and showers Elena with compliments. She just chuckles and rolls her eyes. She does not know yet that in a few days Yura will be brought to the police department again – wearing the same tracksuit, with a similar guilty look on his face and again, with a harsh smell of alcohol. Elena meets such pilferers at local supermarkets every single day: this is the fate of a probation officer in a small town where the main tourist attractions are a modest river harbor, a cathedral bereft of domes and an old submarine.
Yura finally leaves, and we keep walking fast along the narrow streets.
"You know, I love my job so much that a rare criminal makes me mad. I don't snub them, nothing like that… They are also people. Even though not the best ones," Elena explains on the go, humming some random tune.
Again and again, she greets passersby, coos with babies in buggies, nods at pedestrians – right until we stop by a long wooden house with broken windows covered with dust and dirt. Her voice changes.
"Get up the nerve. I'll go inside first, and you follow me. If they ask anything, just say you are taking pictures of emergency housing."
Behind the creaky door, there is a tall wooden staircase leading into the dark. I wait for a minute – and then slowly and cautiously climb up the stairs, trying not to stumble. Mounting the last step, I breathe in a heavy odor of cheap tobacco and run an eye over a small room. A bright sun beam is streaming through a mud-spattered window, lighting up thick puffs of smoke and the somber faces of those who are crammed inside. The closest to me are two men sitting on tacky plinth stools – one with a face marked with deep wrinkles and scars from stab wounds and one with piercing blue eyes, a cross worn next to the skin and prison tattoos. A bit farther away, I see two stodgy-looking women and a frightened little girl in colorful striped tights. Everybody is looking at me and the camera hanging on my neck with suspicion and open hostility. But they clearly have a wholesome respect for Elena and hence put up with the loud shutter sound. Click, click, click. As soon as the man with tattoos signs a pile of papers, we come down the stairs, and a woman with a short haircut and a squarish chin follows us outside. Giving Elena a gimlet eye, she whispers something with her thin pale lips. I can hear only the last three words.
"Please help us."
Later, Elena will explain that there is only one family left in this building, which is totally dilapidated. They still cannot be resettled as nobody wants to have such neighbors: the two brothers we saw upstairs had spent years in prison after committing felonies. For some reason, the woman who lives in a neighboring apartment block – the one who saw us out – helps them and keeps begging the probation officer for help, too. In her eyes, Elena is the last hope.